What started as a few candid snaps has been blown up into a million-dollar business. Street style, the modern-day phenomenon that sees us dissect what fashion shows’ attendees are wearing as much as what the models on the runway are, has come a long way from a small group of bloggers surreptitiously snapping on the sidelines.
And for the most part that’s good. What’s not to like about seeing menswear’s insiders flexing their style might, setting trends and at the same time giving us a blueprint for how to broach them ourselves?
Well, nothing really, apart from the fact that a lot of what’s shot isn’t worth the bits on a memory card. Which is why it’s time to honour the men sidestepping outlandish (and frankly bad) style for the sake of it. The anti-peacocks. The men confident enough in their own importance to not bother about getting dressed with the sole purpose of getting snapped. Which, of course, makes their outfits all the more lens-worthy.
For a man that grew up in the desert, Bruce Pask knows layering. Currently Men’s Fashion Director at legendary New York store Bergdorf Goodman, Pask has honed his eye with stints at major titles like GQ and the New York Times’ T magazine. But it’s his uncanny ability to wear two jackets at once that’s seen him skyrocket through the street style ranks.
Pask is best known for almost single-handedly popularising the outerwear layering trend. Whether it’s a denim jacket and a wool overcoat, a gilet and a topcoat, or a blazer and a parka, this street style stalwart nails silhouette every single time.
Still don’t get the concept of sprezzatura? Ask Frank Gallucci.
Proof that Italians do it better, native Calabrian Gallucci has been instrumental in putting Pitti Uomo on the street style map: his signature mash-up of Italian tailoring and smart-casual shirt-trouser combos has fast become one of the main attractions at the biannual Florentine showcase.
As a former model, Gallucci’s lucky draw in the genes department definitely helps make his style moves stick, but it’s the way he makes statement pieces look so easy that makes him worthy of our hall of fame. No one looks this good in a cobalt blue suit.
No street style list worth its salt would be complete without arguably the world’s most-watched male super.
Billericay-born Gandy might have gotten his start on breakfast TV show This Morning, but he’s since gone on to front campaigns for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana, Banana Republic and Marks & Spencer; against the odds, some might say, in an industry dominated by super-lean male models whose bodies are more beanpole than brawn.
A long-time client of listmate Joe Ottaway (below), Gandy’s personal style is similarly tailoring heavy. Fittingly for London Collections Men’s (soon to be London Fashion Week Men’s) most prominent ambassador, his wardrobe borrows heavily from British tailoring’s big hitters including Thom Sweeney.
But it’s not the just timeless stuff – the checked three-pieces and the elegant jacket-tee-trousers getups – that the Gandyman’s got down pat, he can push the boat out too. Take, for example, the look bottom-right. On anyone else it’d frankly look crazy, but on Gandy, fitted snug and accessorised with shades and a furrowed brow, it just works.
Flanking David Gandy is no mean feat, but London Collections Men fixture Joe Ottaway takes it all in his immaculately suited stride.
Personal stylist Ottaway is best known as but his own sartorial line-up is equally impressive. A sharp mix of Savile Row suiting and old-school Hollywood, his style epitomises the modern gentleman, without skewing dandy. Not bad for an Essex boy.